In the world of skincare, consumers are faced with an overwhelming number of choices. Countless brands and products are available, and it can be easy to overlook the ingredients. Not only is the list of ingredients often challenging to read, but understanding the purpose of each one could fill a graduate course in skincare products. Here I Am is deeply committed to providing safe, holistic self-care products for midlife women, emphasizing sustainability and non-toxicity. In this post, we delve into the risks associated with conventional skincare products and how plant-based alternatives stack up, offering a comprehensive comparison to help you make informed decisions about your skincare routine.

Understanding the Common Toxins in Conventional Skincare

1. Chemical Preservatives (e.g., Parabens)

Parabens are a group of synthetic compounds widely used as preservatives in cosmetics and personal care products to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and mold. Their safety has been questioned due to their ability to mimic estrogen and disrupt the endocrine system and they have been banned in many countries and some US states. Even so, parabens are still found in some popular brands. 

• Risks: Hormonal imbalances, reproductive toxicity, a potential link to breast cancer. Studies have found parabens in breast tumor tissues, raising concerns about their long-term exposure.
• General Concern: Long-term health effects due to synthetic chemical exposure.

2. Phthalates

Phthalates are a group of synthetic chemicals used to increase the flexibility and longevity of products. They are often found in fragrances to help the scent last longer and in various skincare products. Despite their widespread use, phthalates have raised significant health concerns due to their potential to disrupt the endocrine system and other harmful effects. While they are banned in some regions, they remain present in many popular skincare brands.

• Risks: Endocrine disruption, reproductive and developmental issues, hormone-related cancers. Phthalates have been linked to lower sperm counts and developmental disorders in children.
• General Concern: Broad-reaching health implications, especially in reproductive health.

3. Surfactants (e.g., Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES))

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) are surfactants used in many skincare products for their ability to create foam and cleanse the skin. However, these ingredients can strip the skin of natural oils, leading to dryness and irritation, and they may be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane, a probable human carcinogen.

• Risks: Skin irritation, potential contamination with 1,4-dioxane, and prolonged use can lead to skin sensitization and damage to the skin barrier.
• General Concern: Can strip natural oils, leading to skin dryness and sensitivity.

4. Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives

Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives are used in various skincare products to prevent microbial growth and extend shelf life. These preservatives gradually release small amounts of formaldehyde over time. Despite the widespread use of these preservatives, they have raised significant health concerns due to their potential to cause skin irritation, allergic reactions, and links to cancer.

• Risks: Carcinogenic, skin irritation, allergic reactions. Formaldehyde is classified as a human carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC).
• General Concern: Exposure to a known carcinogen in everyday products.

5. Synthetic Fragrances

Synthetic fragrances are commonly added to skincare products to provide a pleasant scent. However, these fragrances can contain numerous undisclosed chemicals, including phthalates, which can pose significant health risks. The lack of transparency in ingredient listings makes it difficult for consumers to identify potentially harmful components.

• Risks: Allergic reactions, respiratory issues, endocrine disruption. Fragrances can include phthalates and other harmful chemicals without disclosure to consumers.
• General Concern: Lack of transparency and potential for hidden toxic chemicals.

6. Antibacterial Agents (e.g., Triclosan)

Triclosan, an antimicrobial agent used in many skincare products, poses several health risks, including endocrine disruption, which can interfere with hormone function and contribute to antibiotic resistance, making bacterial infections harder to treat. Additionally, it can impair the immune system and cause skin irritation while also having detrimental effects on the environment by accumulating in water bodies and affecting aquatic life​.

• Risks: Hormonal disruption, antibiotic resistance, immune system impairment. Studies have shown Triclosan can interfere with thyroid hormone function.
• General Concern: Potential for broader public health issues related to microbial resistance.

7. Polyethylene Glycols (PEGs)

Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) are petroleum-based compounds widely used in cosmetics and personal care products as thickeners, solvents, softeners, and moisture carriers. While PEGs are effective in these roles, their safety has been questioned due to potential contamination with harmful impurities like ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, known carcinogens. Like surfactants, PEGs can strip the skin's natural oils, leading to irritation and dryness.

• Risks: Potential contamination with carcinogens, skin irritation, and dryness.
• General Concern: Potential carcinogen exposure and organ toxicity.

8. Retinyl Palmitate and Retinoic Acid

Retinyl Palmitate and Retinoic Acid are derivatives of vitamin A commonly used in anti-aging and skin renewal products. While they effectively promote cell turnover and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, these ingredients have raised concerns due to their potential to accelerate the development of skin tumors and lesions when exposed to sunlight.

• Risks: Accelerates tumor development, photosensitivity, skin irritation. The FDA has noted that retinyl palmitate can speed the development of skin tumors when exposed to sunlight.
• General Concern: Increased risk of skin cancer with UV exposure.

Major brands currently using these chemicals in their skincare products: 

• Neutrogena
• Olay
• Dove
• L'Oréal
• Aveeno
• Vaseline
• Nivea
• Johnson & Johnson
• RoC
• La Roche-Posay
• Clinique
• Murad
• Paula's Choice
• St. Ives
• Clean & Clear

Risks in Plant-Based Skincare Products

While plant-based skincare products are generally considered safer and more natural, they are not without risks. Here are some potential concerns:

1. Essential Oils

Essential oils like lavender and tea tree are popular in plant-based skincare for their natural fragrance and therapeutic properties. However, they come with risks such as allergic reactions and skin irritation, particularly when used in high concentrations. Prolonged use can lead to sensitization, resulting in dermatitis and other skin issues for some. 

• Risks: Allergic reactions, skin irritation, sensitization with prolonged use.
• General Concern: Natural does not always mean hypoallergenic; patch testing is recommended to avoid adverse reactions.

2. Citrus Oils

Citrus oils, like lemon and bergamot, are known for their brightening properties. However, they pose risks such as photosensitivity, an increased risk of sunburn, and hyperpigmentation. Citrus oils can make the skin more sensitive to UV radiation, leading to potential skin damage.

• Risks: Photosensitivity, increased risk of sunburn, and hyperpigmentation.
• General Concern: Proper use and sun protection are essential to avoid skin damage.

3. Natural Preservatives

Natural preservatives, such as grapefruit seed extract, are often used in plant-based products. However, they may be less effective than synthetic preservatives, leading to potential bacterial or fungal contamination over time. 

• Risks: Potential bacterial or fungal contamination, leading to product spoilage and skin infections.
• General Concern: Product stability and safety can be challenging without synthetic preservatives. For plant-based products, look for ingredients such as benzyl alcohol, sodium benzoate, and potassium sorbate. These natural preservatives can be derived from various plant-based sources, primarily essential oils, fruits, and certain plant resins. 

4. Natural Toxins

Some plant extracts can contain natural toxins. For example, Comfrey contains pyrrolizidine alkaloids, which can be harmful. These natural toxins can cause skin irritation and potential toxicity with prolonged use.

• Risks: Skin irritation and potential toxicity with prolonged use. Some natural ingredients can be toxic if absorbed through the skin in significant amounts.
• General Concern: Awareness of toxic plants and their effects is necessary. Avoid products that contain Comfrey, which is sometimes used in creams and ointments for wound healing and skin conditions. Arnica, used in topical treatments for bruises, sprains, and muscle pain, can cause skin irritation, allergic reactions, and potential toxicity with excessive use. Common essential oils such as tea tree and lavender oil can cause irritation and allergic reactions, particularly in sensitive skin. 

5. Ingredient Mislabeling and Contamination

Finding "plant-based" products may not always be enough. Skincare products can be mislabeled and unknowingly contaminated with heavy metals, pesticides, or other harmful substances. This can lead to adverse skin reactions and long-term health risks, compromising the product's safety and efficacy.

• Risks: Adverse skin reactions and long-term health risks due to contamination.
• General Concern: Potential for heavy metals, pesticides, or other harmful substances. Opting for products from brands known for their stringent quality control and transparency can help to mitigate this concern. Testing new products on a small skin area to check for adverse reactions before regular use is also recommended. 

6. Overuse of Potent Ingredients

Potent plant extracts, like those from oregano or clove, can be too intense for some skin types. Overuse of these ingredients can lead to skin irritation, burning, redness, dryness, and sensitivity.

• Risks: Skin irritation, burning, redness, dryness, and sensitivity.
• General Concern: Potent ingredients require careful formulation and use. Be sure to test any products with these ingredients for skin irritation: oregano, clove, cinnamon, peppermint, lemongrass, tea tree, eucalyptus, and thyme.

Comparing Risks: Conventional vs. Plant-Based Skincare

Non-Plant-Based Skincare

• Pros:
  • Often contains advanced formulations for targeted treatments (e.g., anti-aging, acne).
  • Longer shelf life due to effective synthetic preservatives.
  • Broad accessibility and often cost-effective options due to mass production.
• Cons:
  • Potential for hormone disruption, cancer, and skin irritation from synthetic chemicals.
  • Lack of transparency in ingredients, particularly with fragrances.
  • Environmental concerns due to synthetic chemical production and waste.

Plant-Based Skincare

• Pros:
• Uses naturally derived ingredients that are often gentler on the skin.
• Emphasis on sustainability and eco-friendly practices.
• Fewer synthetic chemicals, reducing the risk of adverse health effects.
• Cons:
• Potential for allergic reactions and photosensitivity from natural ingredients.
• Natural preservatives may be less effective, leading to contamination risks.
• Variability in ingredient potency and composition can affect product consistency.

Making Informed Choices

When choosing skincare products, it's essential to consider the benefits and risks of their ingredients. Here are some tips to help you make informed decisions:

1. Read Labels Carefully: Look for products with transparent labeling that lists all ingredients. Avoid products with vague terms like "fragrance" or "parfum," which can hide multiple chemicals.
2. Patch Test New Products: Before using a new product, especially one with essential oils or potent plant extracts, do a patch test on a small area of your skin to check for reactions.
3. Research Brands: Choose brands that prioritize safety, sustainability, and transparency. Brands committed to ethical practices and quality control are more likely to produce safe products.
4. Consider Your Skin Type: Different skin types react differently to various ingredients. What works for one person may not work for another, so consider your skin's specific needs and sensitivities.
5. Stay Informed: Keep up with the latest research and recommendations from reputable sources like the Environmental Working Group (EWG) and other health organizations.

At Here I Am, we understand the importance of safe, holistic self-care products, especially for midlife women. By comparing the risks of conventional and plant-based skincare, we hope to provide you with information to make informed choices that align with your health and values. Plant-based skincare offers numerous benefits, but it is essential to be aware of potential risks and use these products responsibly. As always, we remain committed to offering products that are not only effective but also safe, sustainable, and non-toxic.